Agency Wine

Pinon’s vineyards have been certified organic since 2011, and all are massale selections. He ferments his chenin in barrel without added yeasts, then balances the expression of the fruit and the level of reduction by aging in both stainless steel and foudres. Trois Argiles is a rich cuvee between sec and demi-sec, and that touch of sweetness feels heady at first. The tension of the structure becomes more apparent with air, managing to capture all the richness and wrap it in green-apple acidity, what W&S tasting director Sarah Looper described as “squeaky minerality.” Complex and ornate in a classical Vouvray sense, this is built to age. (Wine and Spirit WAS 93)